QIDI TECH Glass Fiber ABS Filament 1.75mm, ABS-GF25 3D Printer Filament Fit Most FDM 3D Printers, Frosted Texture, High Hardness, High Interlayer Bond Strength, 1KG Spool, Black

I ordered this as an experimental filament to go with my new X-MAX3 printer. My first opportunity to use it in earnest was to make a block to fasten inside an aluminium mould for polyurethane, to modify the shape of the part. The environment inside the mode is heating up to about 90C and pressure of about 3 bar. In this ABS+CF with 2mm wall and 15% infill, it felt like solid plywood with a nice surface finish even at .3 layer height. Moulded products are now coming out with no sign of deterioration of the print.That was my first print with this material and it was a dream which finished in 8 hours on the x-max3, (compared to the predicted print time of 36 hours in generic ABS on a Prusa MK3)I'll be using this again for sure!

Prints seem very strong and clean. Easy to print including overhangs at around 287°c. Used 0.4mm and 0.6mm nozzles at 0.2mm - 0.3mm layer heights without any problems. I've not fully tested to breaking but suspect layer adhesions remains its weakness. Annealing remains a challenge with larger parts and of course annealing thin walled parts is risky.Overall great stuff if a little expensive for what it is. Much cleaner than PA12 CF and less smelly but not as strong in many ways.

This is a slightly glossy crystalline material that is exceptionally strong when annealed, doesn't warp and gives a rough (like 120grit sandpaper) finish that looks great.It took me quite a while to master, however, and the recommended settings are so wrong it's baffling. In the end I found I had to print it at 320C nozzle, 70C bed and with 70% CPAP on my Vz330 (which is high enough air flow to empty a glass of water - quite the opposite of the "no cooling" they suggest!). And you need to be accurate with that temperature: running slightly higher temperature will cause it to crystallise (as a yellow/white liquid) and clog, destroying everything it touches. E.g. me 2 hours with a blowtorch and pick to unblock my nozzle and sections of my PEI plate are dead for good. Meanwhile, lower the temp and it's viscous, flows weirdly, has poor adhesion and is generally a pain.Oh, and it eats PEI (many just use a bare steel plate with bed adhesive), requires a >=0.5mm hardened nozzle (e.g. tungsten carbide) nozzle and you need to dry it for about 10 hours between 80C and 90C.All that being said, for engineering parts I'd say it's the best value filament around for its strength and lack of need for a high temperature chamber and for me that's worth the effort.

Good filament, but this suck water like crazy, before every print need at least 2-3h dry if using only one time a week